My fascination with jewellery started long before I understood its professional potential. As an eight-year-old, I sketched bangles, earrings, and chains while my peers drew houses and trees. I would sit by the window with a magnifying glass, peering into gemstones and imagining the stories they held. Recognising this unusual passion, my father encouraged me to pursue gemmology. I still remember walking into my US visa interview clutching tiny hand-drawn sketches, convincing the officials that I was travelling to study diamonds. From those childhood scribbles to a 33-year-long journey in the industry, my conviction has never wavered—jewellery is where I truly belong.

India's scale in this industry is enormous. According to IBEF, the country has more than 300,000 gems and jewellery players. The Indian market, valued at Rs. 7,31,255 crore (US$ 85 billion) in January 2025, is projected to reach Rs. 11,18,390 crore (US$ 130 billion) by 2030. This growing landscape offers limitless opportunities for young designers.

To think like a designer
The role of a jewellery designer defies rigid definitions. Design is not merely about technical skills or flawless sketching; it is rooted in the power to visualise. Imagination is a designer's most formidable strength. Some of my most memorable creations were sparked by unexpected inspirations—a temple carving, a window grille, or a geometric motif spotted during travel. This is why I always believe that sketching is secondary; imagination is primary.

A designer must also develop an eye for proportion, form, and balance. Over time, you evolve a personal aesthetic language—your design philosophy—which defines your originality. In a crowded market, individuality is your advantage. Trends may help you fit in, but your perspective helps you stand out. Young designers gain this clarity only through experience, particularly when creating early prototypes that reveal both strengths and limitations.

Finding the right path

When choosing where to study, the simplest guideline is this: build expertise where you want to build your career. If you aim to work abroad, learn that region's design style, technological practices, and customer preferences. If you want a career in India, an understanding of Indian consumers, cultural nuances, and market behaviour becomes crucial. While specialised jewellery design degrees are helpful, foundations in fine arts, product design, fashion, or communication design are equally effective when combined with hands-on jewellery training.

I recommend three to four years of structured education, as it brings discipline and clarity. Equally important are internships, where you learn manufacturability, understand your design direction, and begin discovering your creative identity.

Technology reshaping jewellery design
Technology has revolutionised how designers work. Proficiency in tools like Rhino, MatrixGold, Blender, and Procreate is essential today, allowing designers to turn simple sketches into detailed CAD models within minutes. AI-assisted design is emerging rapidly, offering new forms, combinations, and efficiencies. Sustainability, too, is reshaping the industry through responsible sourcing, ethical materials, and innovative alternatives like vegan leather. Young designers must embrace technology, remain curious about new tools, and weave sustainability into every decision.

Challenges in the field
Most designers enter the field driven by passion, but real learning begins when creativity meets market realities. The key challenge is balancing imagination with consumer needs. A design's strength lies not only in its originality but also in its manufacturability and relevance to the wearer.

Design school teaches you how to think, not what to think. Early in my career, I imagined working with one-carat stones, only to discover that real demand was for much smaller stones. The market reshaped my creative boundaries and made my designs more accessible. Many young designers today also tend to follow global trends too closely. Inspiration is valuable, but imitation weakens your individuality. Your true strength is your signature style.

A meaningful career in jewellery design isn't created overnight. It grows from curiosity, discipline, and the courage to imagine differently. For those starting out, trust your instinct, learn continuously, and let your creativity guide your journey.

- Meenu Subbiah, Founder & Designer, Meenu Subbiah Diamonds